GrapeStone Concepts

Ital or Cal-Ital? American Preferences? Italian Varietal Wine Tasting

I gathered this week with several colleagues from our software firm for a wine tasting of Italian varietals. I wondered if the American palettes would be biased toward the California-grown Italian varietals. I was surprised by the “favorites” rating results.

Our tasting menu included Italian appetizer pairing with appetizers catered by Cavalli's/Dallas/McKinney. Here is the wine progression with ratings:

	Wine	Appetizer Pairing
2011	Gattavecchi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG	Salmon Puffs
2011	Costamolino/Argiolas Vermentino di SardegnaDOCG (WA 90 Pts.)
2006	Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (WA 91 Pts.)	Stuffed mushrooms (Vegetable herb stuffing)
2004	Casisano- Colombaio Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG, (WE 90pts. WS 90 Pts.)	Pear and Gorgonzola Arancini
2008	Seghesio Venom, Rattlesnake Hill, Alexander Valley, CA (WE 94 Pts.) (Sangiovese, French Oak)
2008	Benessere Sagrantino – Napa Valley	Fig Infused Goat Cheese Crostini
2007	Seghesio Omaggio, Super Tuscan-style (WS 92 Pts.)	Pork Belly Bites with a Cranberry Glaze
2006	Accordini “Le Bessole” Amarone della Valpolicella (93 Pts.)	Duck Fois Gras on Butter Crostini
	Finished with a 2005 Bellini (Rufina) Vin Santo del Chianti	(recommend Biscotti)

In my previous article on the Chanticleer Winery, Chris Dearden discusses the Cal-Ital movement:See below: "Taste of the Seacoast" Magazine interview: Chris Dearden, Winemaker, Chanticleer Winery, Napa Valley."

The facts: Americans drink one-third international wines and two-thirds domestic wines. 90% of that comes from California. Hypothesis? These non-sommelier, but “practiced” wine drinkers might have a biased palette towards “Cal-Ital” wines. Some history from Cal-Italia organization :

“The history of winemaking by Italian Americans in California goes back to the late 1800’s, beginning in earnest by the late 1880's. That was when a wave of immigrants from Tuscany and the Piedmont began arriving in Northern California. Some had a winemaking background and some did not. And while some cultivated [those grape] they were familiar with in their homeland, most opted to follow the conventions of the day in the selection of which grape varieties to propagate.

About a hundred years later, starting in the late 1980's and well on its way by the early 1990's, there was strong interest in alternatives to the more conventional and familiar varieties cultivated in California. As the interest intensified within a core group of producers looking to explore new and different options, it coalesced and became the category known as Cal-Italia wines.”

Surprise! Here are the “favorite” rankings among my colleagues:

First Place:2008 Seghesio Venom, Alexander Valley

Second Place:(tied) 2004 Casisano Brunello di Montalcino and Benessere Sagrantino (Napa Valley

Third Place:(3-way tie) 2007 Seghesio Omaggio (Sonoma), 2011 Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna, and 2011 Gattavecchi Vernaccia di San Gimignano

My Conclusions: It's a tie....An even ranking and preference. Italian varietals are food friendly and their natural acidity and flavor were enhanced by the food pairings, overcoming any ordinary bias. Both the California grown varietals and the Italian-grown varietals exhibited their origins and terroir well.

Salute!

"Taste of the Seacoast" Magazine interview: Chris Dearden, Winemaker, Chanticleer Winery, Napa Valley

 

Taste of the Seacoast Magazine

by Tricia H.Conover, C.W.P.

 Initially, Chanticleer’s founder George Grodahl and his wife Caddy were just going to grow grapes to supply other vineyards. “Then we got serious and partnered with Chris Dearden, a veteran winemaker and consultant,” he says. Grodahl successfully made the transition from investment banker to boutique winemaker, recovering his start-up costs following his first vintage, a tribute to his business acumen in a valley where profitability is hard won. “Chanticleer was the proud rooster who used wit and cunning to succeed in the story ‘The Nun’s Priest Tale’ from Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales,” Grodahl explains the winery’s name. “The rooster is also a nod to the Italian Gallo Nero, of Chianti designation.”

Dearden, a California native who studied winemaking in college, has worked for several wineries. During 14 years at Benessere Winery in Saint Helena, he produced many award-winning wines. Chanticleer’s signature Super Tuscan–style wines have consistently won gold medals at several California wine competitions.

My interview with Chris Deaden follows:

How did you decide what kind of grapes to plant for Chanticleer?

The vineyard has sloped, well-drained, and rocky soils, well suited for both Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. George selected the varietals and hired vineyard management experts to plant the hills. I have a background in winemaking using Italian varietals from my days at Napa’s Benessere Vineyards.

What Tuscan winemakers have influenced you?

Italian winemakers who influenced me most are Dr. Alberto Antonini and Attilio Pagli. I met them through a Tim Mondavi consultant and friend, Jim Moore. Antonini was the former head winemaker for the Marchesi Antinori responsible for the famous Super Tuscans, Tignanello and Solaia wines. Pagli is a consulting oenologist for more than a dozen of Italy’s top Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti properties.

How do you see your wines in comparison?

We’re not trying to emulate Tuscany. That would be tilting at windmills. Our Super Tuscan–style wines are the best California expression of these varietals, more opulent and generous, perhaps. We are not trying to produce a Brunello di Montalcino. It’s all about the terroir, soil, and climate. Napa Valley has some of the best in the world.

How do you think you differ as a winemaker compared to those in Tuscany?

Well, my shoes are not nearly as stylish as theirs! With our global economy, though, much of the equipment and winemaking techniques are the same.

What trends are you seeing in California in making Italian varietals?

There is a micro movement. We are now planting high-quality, prized clones that produce fewer grapes with greater quality traits, contrasting the high-yield grapes of the ’90s "Cal-Ital" craze.

Tell us about some of your wines.

Our inaugural Super Tuscan–style Riserva consists of 48 percent Cabernet and 52 percent Sangiovese. This is a substantial, age-worthy wine. It is our Wine Club exclusive. Last year we produced a Pinot Grigio that sold out. We’ll produce another this year.

What do you do for fun when you are not making wine?

I’m coaching my daughter’s lacrosse team and raising funds to build a stadium for my son’s baseball team. I stay extremely busy.

Chanticleer Winery Morningside Vineyard 4 Vineyard View Drive Yountville, Calif. 707-945-0566

About the Author: Tricia Conover is a C.W. P., Certified Wine Professional, from the Culinary Institute of America, Napa Valley. She is the founder of GrapeStone Concepts, and is a wine and travel writer. Tricia currently serves as a Vice President of a California-based software firm.

Premiere Napa Valley Auction 2012:Highlighting Women Winemakers

While the wine news is reporting a record Premiere Napa Valley auction event, where 10 cases of Dana Estates sold for $70,000 or $1167/bottle, it is important to note the incredible contribution of women winemakers among the Napa Valley vintners. One of the 10 top wines to be sold at this auction was from Amuse Bouche, Heidi Peterson Barrett's Pomerol-style Merlot. Heidi's successes are legendary including early clients like Screaming Eagle. 

Prior to the auction I attended a preview event exclusive to some of the more well-known women winemakers. There were some spectacular wines featured in-preview including:

Meander's "Conspire" Sauvignon Blanc by Amy Aiken - Stainless steel fermented and sur lie aged for 5 months bringing a real creaminess to the S. blanc. See Amy Aiken's Story

Tres Sabores  ¿POR QUÉ NO?!! by Julie Johnson - an affordable and delicious Zinfandel wine, great to use to "Pop the Question". Why Not? See picture below. Learn about Julie Johnson's Wines

Remi Barrett, Heidi's daughter, was pouring several wines from one of the other family wine labels, La Sirena. It is a memorable dry Moscato with floral and tropical aromas, and a nice addition to their pricy flagship "allocated" wine, their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Robert Parker has called Heidi Barrett "the first lady of wine".See Heidi Peterson Barrett's Bio

Raymond Vineyard's Director of Winemaking,  Stepahnie Putnam, was pouring a great value wine, Raymond's Reserve Cab which retails at $35 - one of the best values I saw today for a true Napa Valley Cab. See Stephanie Putnam's background with Raymnd Vineyards

About Premiere Napa Valley: Premiere Napa Valley News

Each year 200 Napa Valley winemakers craft special small lots of unique wines that 1000 attendees and bidders from restaurants and retailers snap up a their specialty wine offerings. These wines are donated to the auction by the vintners to help support the charities and programs of the Napa Vintners Association. We're happy that a record $3.1 Million was raised on Saturday. And, we applaud the special contribution of women winemakers to endeavor.

Tricia Conover, C.W.P. and Julie Johnson, Winemaker, Tres Sabores

 

Cameron Hughes Wines Live Up to Their Hype and Value

Many of my associated wine professionals have been raving about the quality and value of Cameron Hughes wines. So, I thought I would do some sampling on my own. I purchased the 2009 Lot 303 Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2009  Lot 271 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

The Cab had wonderful scents of blackberry and plum, and had a good minerality with overtones of dark chocolate. It had very fine tannins. For $34 where are you going to find this quality of wine? Not any other place in Stags Leap appellation. Perfect for that rib roast or grilled steaks.

The Pinot Noir has already won a Wine Enthusiast 90 Pts. It had fragrant fresh cherry and raspberry aromas. There are some good toasty spices noted. Where can you find this quality Pinot Noir from Sonoma's Russian River Valley? Here at Cameron Hughes. Fabuous paired with a pork roast or turkey for Christmas dinner.

Happy Holidays!

Wine Sensory Detection is a Practice Sport: The Tuscan Magazine - Tasting Like a Pro: Hosting a Tuscan Wine Competion at Home

In the latest issue of The Tuscan Magazine, you will find my detailed Top 10 tips on "Hosting a Tuscan Wine Competition at Home". Wine professionals recommend having tasting exercises often and recording your handwritten observations immediately. Can you image a wine judge tasting over 100 wines at a competition and not taking notes?

Our recommendations for a Tasting Competition at Home can apply to any vertical or horizontal tasting exercise. Expose your guests to some new as well as some familiar wines. Broadening the palate and "sensory rolodex" is important for improving sensory detection for any level of wine-drinker.

The Tuscan Magazine new edition for July 2011 can be found at this link. The article appears on page 17.

The Tuscan Magazine

The Tuscan Magazine now has both an iPhone and an iPad app that can be downloaded free. Check out the new articles on Tuscan wedding and travel recommendations in this terrific issue.

For a copy of the article:

Download Host a Tuscan Wine Competition at Home Tricia Conover The Tuscan magazine july2011

Calling All Wine and Soccer Fans: Wine and Snack Combinations for "Footie" Season

I was asked to put together a snack-friendly wine list for my editor at Tuscan Magazine. It's soccer/footie season in Italy. Italians have the same desire as we do in the States to find wine that is a complement to their snacks. Go Fiorentina!

 
 

Check out the Tuscan Magazine Blog at: Tuscan Magazine Blog

 

April 1: What No Fools Will Drink

I'ts April Fools Day. You don't want to be the fool caught drinking a poor value wine. The most commonly asked question I get is: Are there any good value wines out there? The answer is "yes", literally there are hundreds of them. Be discerning, do a little research, and you should be able to find some wonderful wines.

Here is my "No Fools" list of some great finds:

2009 Cameron Hughes Sauvignon Blank (Leyda Valley) $12

2008 Castle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley) $12

2009 Sand Rita Reserva Malbec (Colchagua Valley) $12

2009 Tangley Oaks Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) 15

2009 Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (Stellenbosch South Africa) $13

2007 Andezen Côtes du Rhône $11

2009 Spellbound Chardonnay (CA) $13

2007 Rolf Binder Retro SS Shiraz Cabernet (Barossa Valley) $15

2009 Josef Chromy Pepik Chardonnay (Tasmania) $20

2008 Fornese Terre di Chieti Sangiovese (Abruzzi Italy) $12

2007 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Ashley's Vineyard (Santa Rita Hills, CA) $50

For more great buys for No Fools:

Wine Enthusiast Best Buy Cheat Sheet, click here:

Best Buy Cheat Sheet - Wine Enthusiast

 

 

Premiere Napa Valley Wine Auction - A New Screaming Eagle is Born? - Scarecrow

I just returned from the Premiere Napa Valley Wine Auction and the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. A new star has emerged from the Auction - Scarecrow  - by winemaker Celia Welch. A Japanese importer paid $125,000 for a 5 cases, or $2083 per bottle. Two years ago that same lot went for $80,000.

The Auction took place at the Culinary Institute of America, Napa Valley, where the crowd of 1,000 consisted of vintners, retailers, restaurateurs, distributors, brokers and media from across the country and around the world. The PNV Wine Auction began in 1997 as a "bake sale" by the Napa Vintners Association to preserve and protect the Napa Valley appellation and has evolved into a week-long event. The Symposium for Professional Wine Writers featured attendance from 85 of the most well-know editorial wine writers including Susan Kostrewza (Wine Enthusiast), Richard Bradley (Worth Magazine), Karen MacNeil (The Wine Bible), Lettie Teague (The Wall Street Journal).

Do we have a new wine star? A new Screaming Eagle? The buyer of the Scarecrow lot, Ichizo Nakagawa, owner of Tokyo-based Nakagawa Wine Company, receive a standing ovation from a record crowd. He said he was determined to buy the lot "no matter what",

"I'm amazed, I'm shocked," said Scarecrow owner Bret Lopez stepping outside to catch his breath. "We never dreamed we'd reach this stature and (winemaker) Celia Welsh is a genius, a humble genius who coaxes the sublime flavors from the old men," referring to the 66-year-old-vines that produce just a 1/2 ton per acre.

Here are some of the other statistics from Premiere Napa Valley courtesy of the Napa Vintners Association:

Premiere Napa Valley 2011 – By the Numbers

• Nearly $2.4 million in sales

• 23% y/y increase

• Topped record year 2008 ($2.2 million) by 5%

• Successful bidders: 68

• Cases purchased: 1530

• Average price per case: $1546 ($128/bottle)

• Rounding out the other top ten highest earning lots of the day: Schrader Cellars, Ovid, Levy and McClellan, Shafer Vineyards, Robert Mondavi Winery, Reynolds Family Winery, Duckhorn Vineyards, Silver Oak Cellars and Beringer Vineyards.

The SuperBowl is not Just for Beer ....... Your Best Value Wine Pairings with SuperBowl Snacks

Since the SuperBowl is in Dallas next week, the partying in our hometown has started early. Last night I was at a wine event – Côte du Coeur Wine Society of the American Heart Association - and this wine/snack pairing discussion came up frequently.  Beer is terrific with snacks, but some of us just want a great value wine with our nachos, sliders, and chili.

Here are my best rating-for-the-dollar recommendations (under $20/bottle in most places) for the best wine that will  hold up to unusual and spicy tastes of snack foods.

(RATINGS NOTE: WS-Wine Spectator, RP Robert Parker, W&S Wine and Spirits, WE Wine Enthusiast)

Salty Snacks - Chips, Nuts, Crackers
Prosecco: Riondo Prosecco   $12.99 *RP90 
Cava Spanish Sparkler: Montsarra Cava Brut $14.99 *WS90
USA  Sparkler: Gloria Ferrer Brut $17.99  *WS 90

Salsa or Nachos and Chips
Pinot Grigio, Italy: J. Hofstatter Alto Adige Pinot Grigio 2009  $17.79 S&S90
Spanish Rioja: Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Crianza 2006 $12.99 *W&S 90
Or 2005 Beronia Reserva Rioja  $16.99 *WS91

Pulled Pork or Beef Sliders or Hot Wings
Californiz Zinfandel : 2006 Rosenblum "Richard Sauret" Paso Robles Zinfandel $18.99 *WS90
or  2008 Decoy Napa Valley Zinfandel $19.99 *WE92
Merlot, Chile: Santa Ema Merlot 2008, $13
Australian Shiraz: Layer Cake 2009 $15.99 *WS89
Oregon Pinot Gris: 2009 King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris $14.99 * W&S 92

Hot dogs or Bratwurst
German Riesling: St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett  2009 $17.99 *WS92
Non-oaked Chardonnay: 2008 Clos la Chance "Glittering Throated Emerald" Un-Oaked Monterey County Chardonnay $6.99
or 2009 Foxglove Central Coast Chardonnay $11.99 *RP90
Austrian Gruner Veltliner: 2006 Weinrieder Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben  $18.99 *WS90
Argentina, Mendoza, Malbec:  Catena Malbec 2007  $15.99 *WS91

Chili or Frito-Pie
Spanish Rioja: Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Crianza 2006  $12.99 *W&S 90
or 2005 Beronia Reserva Rioja   $16.99 *WS91
Australian Shiraz: D’Arenberg ,The Stump Jump 2008  $9.99  *WS 90
Chianti:  2008 La Maialina Chianti Classico  $14.99    RP90
or  2007 Antinori Chianti Classico "Peppoli" $19.99*WS90
California Zinfandel: : 2006 Rosenblum "Richard Sauret" Paso Robles Zinfandel  $18.99 *WS90
or  2008 Decoy Napa Valley Zinfandel  $19.99 *WE92

SuperBowl-Shaped Chocolate Cake
Tawny Port: Dow Porto Tawny $15.99
Muscat blanc: Barefoot Cellars Moscato $10.99

Go Steelers Go Packers- Enjoy the Black Eyed Peas at the half-time show in Cowboy’s Stadium with a great value wine.

Have a Healthy Wine......for the Holidays: Excerpt from the Tuscan Magazine

During my month-long trip to Italy in October, I had the pleasure of meeting with Sarah Frasier, editor of the Tuscan Magazine. I join British, Canadian, Irish, German, and Italian writers as their sole American journalist. It's a privilege.

Sara and her husband, Richard are Brits who have relocated to Lucca, Toscana, Italy and are the authors of Tuscan Living: From the Yorkshire Moors to the Tuscan Hills. I have featured their book in my Amazon.com "I Recommend" section.

To get a glimpse of this wonderful English-speaking publication of Tuscany, go to:

http://tuscanlivingmagazine.com/\

My article appears on Page 40 of the Body and Soul section of the on-line version. " Have a Healthy Wine: Healthy Italian Wines, the Difference is Skin Deep". For a reprint of the article, write us at: maggie@grapestoneconcepts.com.

  

We're grateful for our nation and all its blessing this Thanksgivings. Have a Healthy Wine!

Page 40: the Tuscan magazine

 

It has long been realized that red wine brings to our bodies a group of organic chemicals that can serve as clot-inhibiting, bad cholesterol reducing, antioxidant-enriching properties. How do the wines of Italy stack up in delivering these benefits?

The latest studies on red wine have been truly amazing. The health effect of wine drunk in moderation are not just the anti-atherosclerotic (anti-plaque in vessels), antithrombotic (anti-clot formation), but also are the angiogenic (inhibit the production of blood vessels) properties against tumors. Many new therapeutic cancer-fighting drugs work on the premise that the prevention of growth of new blood vessels inhibits the growth of tumors. These tumors need new blood vessels to grow.

Red grapes, dark chocolate, blueberries, garlic, soy and tea are some of the ingredients that starve cancer while feeding our bodies.

 Dr. William Li, M.D., Medical Director and President of the Angiogenesis Foundation, Cambridge, MA, USA,  was recently covered by Wine Spectator Magazine  for his presentation at the TED Conference, a small non-profit where the world’s thinkers and doers gather for “Ideas Worth Spreading”, in February 2010. Dr. Li says,

“By examining the potential of antiangeogenics in food, we will find answers to cancer all around us…In our groceries, in our food, and in our glasses”.

Chocolate Atlas:News and Resources for Sophisticated Chocophiles

This is a webzine that you'll want to visit often if you love chocolate, and need advice on all things and places "Chocolate Covered". I have a new article:  Wine Roads and the Chocolate Valley of Italy:
Take the A-11 Autostrada to Health.

http://www.chocolateatlas.com/index.htm